The kit comes with the control stick, but it's up to the builder to pick a grip and button combination.
I'm going with Van's prewired ones with Tosten grips. It has the same button combination I'm used to, as well as an ability to twist it left and right into a postion just with an allen key. The only thing I don't really care for is that the top stick label is a sticker vs an engraving.
Do you need it? No of course not, but it's extremly useful on longer flights and does away with the need for rudder trim. I've heard it also makes the ride smooth but since I almost always use it on the 10 I can't really answer that.
You buy the kit directly from Vans however the rest is dependent on the servos you use. You'll end up spending north of $1,000 US for this feature which is reasonable on the grand scheme of things. Installation is extremely easy and can be done during the build process or after.
You can add the Beringer brake option to your RV-14 when ordering the kit. You can probably get it after the fact but I just opted for it on the order. I feel brakes and master cylinders are a good upgrade to put on any project. These also come with lines from Aircraft Specialty, and some wheels for tubeless tires (tire not included).
I can get a few additional options such as a parking brake and antiskid valve. I chose not to add either of those because I've used the parking brake maybe twice on the 10, and I have enough feet control not to skid... plus a buddy of mine said he never set it up.
The instructions for the master cylinders I couldn't find, and had to email Beringer. They emailed them back same day and while it was a bit fuzzy, between those and VAF posts I got everything installed and plumbed.
I wanted to do something different than my last build and went with powder coat on the rudder pedal assemblies. For a few hundred dollars, Select Coatings in Oklahoma City, powder coated up all the parts in a black texture. I could not be any more happier with the results!
You can go with what the kit provides, that appears to work well. However Aircraft Specialty Flightlines has made available a lot of options that improve on the per plans stock design. I'll reference my RV-10 build again because the 14 kit does seems to have improved on the fuel selector.
On the 10 I went with a type 7 selector, center console throttle quadrant, AFP fuel pump, and stainless steel lines. Fit and form it all gives a polished look to the install. My biggest angst with this system is getting to the fuel filter once a year involves removing from the tunnel and inspecting. Reinstallation and checking for leaks is equally frustrating.
On this build I'm going with RV14 Cabin Fuel Hose Kit #3
'This kit is designed to plumb your RV14/14A in the stock configuration. It includes CNC bent and flared Rigid tubes for the cabin of the aircraft as well as for the wing roots. The only change from the stock configuration is that the tube that goes from the Pump to the Firewall is changed to a flex hose for vibration isolation. #3 includes a WING ROOT FILTER kit instead of the tunnel mounted fuel filter.'
I worked through the fuselage installation and it really could not have been any easier. Don't have my wings yet but I assume those will install easily as well. Here are some pics from their installation guide.
The plans call to use a pull rivet as the static port. I think these look cheap and don't like the idea of of using braided connections. Went with exactly what I used on my 10 and bought the Cleaveland style ones from Flyboy Accessories. In this installation I'm using the duplicate set of push to connect fittings I have and the 1/4" tubing that came with the kit.
If you want to see how I installed it on the 10 you can see my write up. 9 years later, 6 years of flying I've had zero issues and they've always passed the Pitot static check (hence the duplicate fittings I have on hand). The adhesive has held well and less messy than proseal.
